The train platform infrastructure especially in Freiburg is broken, meaning no lifts between the floors, stairs only. I had one medium suitcase and Lexi in her travel box. The kindness of strangers really applied on this travel day, with multiple stairs and multiple people carried my bag for me. Lexi traveled well, not a peep like the old pro she is, getting heavier, Christoph said she needs to go on a diet.
In the cab from the Dijon train station the driver was speaking to a buddy living in Morocco, driver couldn’t speak English so the friend spoke to me from Morocco in English, how cool was that!
Brigitte, the manager and cleaner of the apartments welcomed me, Christoph also bringing cat litter so I wouldn't have to carry it on the train. The apartment I have stayed in the times I have been to Dijon has now installed lock boxes which is a game changer for Brigitte. She now comes to clean in the mornings but does not have to wait around all hours to check guests in.
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| The entry door to where I stay, note the lock boxes on the right. both panels open to admit a car into the courtyard for room for one car. |
We lunched at Sushi King in Zola Plaza (were the fountain lined by frogs, sculpted, not real), proprietor recognized us and came over to chat. Amazing how much she remembered about previous conversations over the years. Food and service was great as usual.
Christoph showed me the area he lives in and a second hand store that takes non-sold items from department stores. It was the neatest and well run (by the Red Cross and volunteers) store I have seen. Most of those stores have a distinctive smell when you walk in, this was bright, airy and impressive. Speaking of second hand, there are these smallish boxes scattered throughout the city where used books are placed for free pickup by an interested person. Some are in English, tourists drop them off instead of carrying them home, it is a lovely surprise to find one in them!
A real gastronomic treat was going to Le Piano qui Fume www.lepianoquifume.com The Smoking Piano, well there was no piano and no smoking but it was a charming family run restaurant to a very high quality. Decor was brick walls, tasteful, modern art, comfy chairs all, about 20 tables, in understated good taste. The menu del jour, daily menu, is what we had and all three courses were delicious. The owner, also maitre-de was quietly friendly, a real treat, thanks to Christoph for discovering this gem. In fact I went back a couple of more times.
We also lunched at Place D'Italie, as you can gather, Italian food. Honestly my pasta was quite dry, but I went back and had another dish, still dry but tastier. Guess that is how they serve it in that part of Italy. They have a lovely outdoor seating area surrounded by these trees in Place des cordeliers. www.placeditalie.dijon.fr
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| I do not know what type of tree this is but very pretty. |
The early bird catches the gougere, a French cheese bun which is decadently delicious but the patisserie, bakery, sells out most mornings. It was right around the corner from the apartment and smelled delicious, run by Jerome Bruet.
I visited Les Halles, the food market a few times mostly to get a Thai salad, I know, I know "when in France" and all that. The lady is really nice and always gives me a bit extra. I also bought some lovely goat cheese, house made yoghurt and eggs.
Christoph had read reviews about this restaurant and wanted to go, L'AbenFant is definitely a "treat" place to dine because it was quite expensive but the concept was interesting. They only use products sourced locally and explain that in the menu so no coffee, chocolate, sugar etc. Christoph had a "coffee with sugar" which he said was "interesting"... www.restaurantlabenfant.fr
We also went to La Paillotte which is Oriental, the proprietors are Cambodian and the walls are lined inside with pictures from there including Ankor Wat, which I've only seen in videos of the country. I went back another day to have a pot of gunpowder tea which was refreshing.
When outside the apartment I can hear church bells, they mark the hour with number it is but also ring once per quarter quarter hour two times for :30, three for :45. from this church named St. Michael is down the road from the apartment a bit.
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| Front facade |
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| Rear facade |
The heat wave that surrounded Europe had passed and temperatures were in the low to mid 20C with showers most days, which made it very comfortable to walk around the city. I did a day of clothes shopping, which is unusual for me, to find that the place I liked to by slacks from had closed. I also got a hair cut from Cedric, the owner of "leprivilege" (no website) who had moved shop from the high street to an alley off of it, probably cheaper rent but still a lovely studio space.
I noticed a crest of arms about a block down the street I was on and it looked German so looked it up and it is the Federal Republic Honorary Consulate for Deutschland and this was on top of the arched entryway.
For the train ride back I found my voice and actually asked for assistance with my bags from fellow passengers. One was from Bern, Switzerland so she spoke several languages as they are required to. Another was from Pennsylvania, U.S.A., a couple and their son who was actually sitting in my seat but there was a spare next to it so I sat there. The connecting train from Basel SBB to Freiburg timing was twelve minutes which is tight and to add to my stress the train from Dijon was late, argh! So I just jumped onto the first car possible, not my designated seat but thankfully a vacant one. I booked seats because it is the holiday season and those that do not can be seen standing in the aisles or sitting in the spaces for luggage. Another note to self, the French trains are two stories and I was on the second, more stairs. Cost wise it isn't a huge difference between booking 1st class and 2nd so next time folks it will be 1st for us.
I/we were there from July 14 to August 6th, another note, go for a different month because a very large amount of businesses close for August vacation. I booked the dates around Christoph's known schedule at the time which changed some. Still we did get a few good lunchtime noshes together and enjoyed walking around together.
Here are few more pictures for you.
Potted garden put in by the Mayor for the summer in a previous empty space, known as a relaxation zone in the city.
There are still half-timbered buildings here, this one is above a restaurant with maybe residences above?
I/we had a good relaxing vacation. Lexi occupied an antique red chair I'd put a blanket on to protect but she decided it was better under the blanket and once that happened I left her to it. When leaving I took the blanket off and wow, the amount of cat hair was enough to knit something with so cleaned it up. Brigitte doesn't like cats and dogs and has an extra job to clean up the hair, probably the reason for it. Ludovic, the owner, has a soft spot for them so he allows them.
Cheers and hope you are having a good summer!
