Cadiz

Check out Ivan’s post of our day together with this link http://www.globallanguagetraining.com/slow-travelling-sevilla/

He gives more detail on the history of the area, his barrio or neighbourhood and I enjoy reading about his view point of the day.

Completely rainy day, first ever here for us in Sevilla with wind as well. People’s faces were unhappy looking as they walked around under umbrellas. I expect it doesn’t rain too much here. Being from Vancouver we didn’t mind and it was warm enough. We got lost, actually lost this time, after walking a long way through interesting neighbourhoods. We ended up at the Alcazar again back in tourist country. By that point were tired and didn’t know which way to start walking back. No problem, we took a taxi back. Wasn’t costly and our feet appreciated it.

On our wandering we found another food etc. market which is much younger than the one Ivan took us to, this one is only thirty years old. 

Mercado (Market) Arenal

Being close to siesta time it wasn’t full and many vendors had left but still amazing to see. The most interesting vendor to us was a fellow who worked with dried bamboo and cane, he did baskets, chairs, all sorts of things. His working shop was his retail store so after asking permission to enter we saw some true works of art with the materials. The market is in a massive building with arched walkways that takes up an entire city block. Showing some age and wear and tear but beautiful.

Time passes quickly when you’re having a good time. We’ve only got another three weeks here. It is such a beautiful city! As always we will be sad to leave and have made friends here in Pepe, Ivan and our waiter at the local bodega.

Our partner’s comment who are living in the flat now: “D. mentioned today that we only have a month left here in Freiburg. A month on vacation used to be a long time. Funny how your perspective changes in response to circumstances.” On the bright side… they look forward, as we do, to meeting up again and spending time together. I actually didn’t know them well before this venture of sharing a flat but feel privelaged to know them now, and the arrangement has worked very well also from both our points of view.

So tomorrow, on to Cadiz pronounced Cadish for a few days. We hadn’t bought train tickets in advance, unusual for us but no problem. Had an hour wait and boarded, it’s an hour and forty five minutes Sevilla to Cadiz and really on all the train trips we’ve been on, the most boring. Miles and miles of pretty much naked fields plowed but not yet planted. Except going across the narrow strip of land over the sea, waves on one side with sand dunes and calmer sea on the other which made me think we were on a boat! Arrive and what is supposed to be a five minute walk to the hotel, isn’t, but we didn’t walk it! We taxied, I think you would have to be an Olympic walker to do it in five minutes, took the taxi about ten. Wet and windy in both Sevilla and Cadiz. Once installed in a very small room, I was warned about that, we walked out and about for a bit. Had a tapa and drink at a bar, walked some more, went back to same bar, had another tapa and came back to the hotel.

Cadiz is on a peninsula in Spain, on the Atlantic. Take a look on Google maps. More on it later as we explore.

The hotel is old, rooms are not numbered, they are named after famous people and there is a plaque on the wall inside to explain. It is four floors around an atrium in the middle . They are nicely furnished, at least ours is and has a window onto the street below that we can’t figure out how to open, but if did, Lexi could get through anyway.

Our first full day in Cadiz and we did what you’ve read we do in many cities and took a bus tour around it. Has to be around it because the old town has too narrow streets for buses. Back again tomorrow, another twenty-four hour ticket.

We are enjoying the palm trees in Spain, so many, and different kinds, really feels tropical and is. Less orange trees in Cadiz but I would guess more gardens and palm trees. 

Beautiful Flamenco dancer, she is named but I didn't write it down, just loved the statue!

 After the bus tour we walked the older part of town then settled like turtles to enjoy the sunshine, out of the wind. Watched kids playing hide and seek and running all over the plaza. Found the food market but it was closed. I “think” we can find it again. As you can tell from previous posts we’re amateur foodies and love markets.

Flower market outside the food one. See the individual "houses" each hold a different vendor.

More walking until tapa time and after researching other places, some close the kitchen at 16:30, we were later than that, we ended up at the same place as last night.  The owner greets us and we are set up with a tapa each and drinks. We are ready to go when the waitress puts another tapa on the table courtesy of the house, not on the menu, I asked. It was a fish of some kind, potato and a most wonderful sauce, lemon and truly, not sure what else. It’s what they were having for their dinner. I felt rather honoured, or I’m not sure the correct word here but happy minimally. Okay and yes, my cynical side just says they want to see us back but really they didn’t have to do that.

Cadiz Cathedral, it's enormous!

Today we “met” two couples from Holland, I guess this is a winter destination for them. First one was a young couple who were on the train with us. They were at breakfast at the same time. She wore a an absolutely stunning short dress of gray, white and silver.

After our gratus tapa, the other couple from Holland were eyeing the menu and I beckoned them in, saying in my very limited Spanish that this was a good place to eat. They spoke English and said they wanted to walk more before coming back. I’ve done this in several cities on our trips. There are many websites who tout the best restaurants by category of price but I don’t think you can beat a person actually sitting in it and saying, this is a great place!

Hammering and general din started at 08:30 the next morning being Monday. We were warned by a notice  in the elevator that they are renovating the third floor. Sounded like they were coming through our room at some points that morning! So no problem with the start time, know they have to do it, probably can’t afford to close the hotel, just not pleasant to live in. Plus, we should be out and about in Cadiz and not in the hotel anyway but we are slow starters to our day.

Carnival was just starting I think it includes singing, dancing large light features are hung between the streets. We really didn't see anything about it, heard the occasional snippet of singing. We didn't stay on a Saturday night when most of it happens.

http://www.andalucia.com/festival/carnival/cadiz-guide.htm

With the continual racket coming into the room from the renovation of the hotel we decided Wednesday to leave Cadiz and train back to Sevilla, we had originally booked until Friday. We noticed other hotels being renovated as well, this time of year is a good time for them to upgrade. Bad time to be in one.

Train took all of five minutes to book and ten minutes to board for an hour and forty five minutes journey on a regional train stopping many times.

We’re back in Sevilla and appreciating our home away from home, the space and lack of noise.

Web was down this morning, came up around noon, we went out and now it’s down again. 

Bruce is cooking again! Yum! Except a bit of a failure yesterday, it’s been a while since he cooked so out of practise. Today’s version smells and tastes wonderful. We’ve been mostly living on cold food, like tapas and fruit and veg from here, as said, no complaints and healthy, but sometimes it’s good to have something hot that isn’t coffee or tea.

Happy Valentines Day! Cheers, Bx2 and Lexi Cat

Tours of Sevilla Neighbourhoods

We finally found Eslava the restaurant everyone here says the food is very good. Being a Sunday it was especially crowded so we ducked out and went to our regular spot. We had asked for the bill, received it, and the waiter “who almost knows our name” gave us a beer and a wine on the house. Really, what more could you ask?

A group of ten older folk came and sat next to us, with moving of tables and moving of people in seats it seemed to take ten minutes for them to get settled. The women’s hair were all dyed and they and their gentlemen were all dressed nicely. They ordered platters and shared.

Sunday seems to be when everyone dresses up, probably for church, as a child I had to. About four years of age I insisted I was ready to dress myself, Mom let me. We go to church for her to notice I’d not put on my knickers! Back home, don the underwear and back to church.

Along with dressing up; little girls wear bows in their hair and dresses, little boys have their hair carefully combed and sometimes wear short pants with a blazer. This does not stop them from playing soccer or chasing pigeons in the square. I remember if I was dressed in my “Sunday best” I wasn’t allowed to romp about in case I’d ruin my clothes. Wasn’t too much fun to be dressed up frankly. In my career I had to wear suits to work and look appropriate for an office environment. Perhaps that’s why I don’t dress up so much now, I don’t have to and I like it this way!

Walked around different neighbourhoods again, found more churches, found the shopping district with the chain stores, boring… However there were a few owner operated stores mixed in and that was interesting. One store sold pens from all over the world and priced from low to hundreds of euros. Great to see the selection and where they all came from. Many more flamenco oriented shops with the accessories like combs, mantillas and fans, so colourful!

With Ivan’s help I am starting to figure out a menu better. Also when I see something on someone else’s plate that looks good I will point to it and order. Then I’ll point to my now empty plate and point it out on the menu to the waiter to see if I’m correct. It is a bit unorthodox  but works for me and just another way to learn the language. As I have said, a person cannot be shy about asking for things in a country where you don’t speak the language.

A cool day but good for Bruce walking and we walked our feet off, all the way to Alcazar Palace Lion gate but not inside, yet. 

A mime pretending to play tennis, he holds position for a long time before doing another.

Firstly though we stopped in at our neighbourhood fruit and veggie stall and bought more lovely oranges. They had fresh picked strawberries! So I smelled them, yum, then the proprietor gave me one, even more yum, of course we bought some. Got them back to the flat and they are enormous and super delicious! Yum about ten times over!

Bruce got his glasses fixed or adjusted to allow him to see properly, and we just walked, taking streets we hadn’t been on before. We did identify where we had stayed on our previous trip to Sevilla and Bruce felt good about that, gave him another reference point. So many plazas, you don’t walk too far without running into another one. After a couple of stops for lunch and a drink we started home. Got a bit lost, not completely turned around, just unfamiliar streets, headed in the right direction, but not the most efficient way to get there. I always think, well we’ve just learned another way to go and have seen more of the city. Did get chilled though so were glad to return to the flat.

Ivan's description of our proposed day.

CALLE FERIA: OLD FLEA MARKET AND FOOD MARKET

11.30: DEPARTURE

VISIT TO FLEA MARKET: It’s one of the oldest traditions from the city, still done in the old way. It’s a small flea market where you can find, books, pieces or art, collection pieces, clothing, and whatever may come to your mind.

13.30 (around): visit to the oldest food market (still working) in Seville. It has a place to eat inside, where you visually pick the fish you want to eat. Very unique and authentic vibe.

15.30-16.00h: 

Today a tour of Sevilla neighbourhoods with Ivan our guide. We started off at the flea market. Absolutely everything available there except maybe toilet paper and food, more on that in a bit. Lined along the closed off street. Ivan said some of the stuff being sold might be “hot” but in general not.

On to a palace Palacio Marqueses de la Algaba where a religious sales exhibition was being held with all manner of things for the Holy Week called Semana Santa in April around Easter. 

Ignore me here, look at the palace, it's beautiful! Ivan's picture

Much of it was hand made and gold plated. Ivan said some rosary beads are made with rose petals and smell for years. There were white elaborate flower arrangements carved in wax, too many things to mention but all beautiful. It had a lovely courtyard and museum of ancient artifacts from excavations under the city streets.

Palace courtyard garden, booths encircled the outskirts of it.

 Next the tour turned into a foodie one, yum! Tour of a large food market that has been there for centuries but, like many shops had been closed and refurbished in the 90’s. 

Ivan's picture of the food market

The entire neighbourhood had become dangerous in the ‘80’s with many muggings, prostitutes and generally not a good place to be. It has been cleaned up and often seen cops make sure it stays that way. I was told by our neighbour to leave my purse at home so lined my pockets with necessities but didn’t need to. It’s a safe place now, still a large city so, as always I am careful, and we enjoyed our walk around it immensely.

Further walk around the neighbourhood with a stop at Gonzalo Molina, yes I took a napkin so I would get the name right. It is a neighbourhood bar that tourists like us would normally not be in or have the chance to experience, shame, but also appropriate. It’s interior was crowded with pictures, books, antiques of all sorts which maybe weren’t antique when they were installed. 

Cruzcampo is the most popular beer here, the fellow below is a famous bull fighter

The ceiling was nearly ready to fall but had been shored up because if they had to re-build it wouldn’t have the same vibe. We had the specialty of the house fried grouse. Most heavenly! Took many napkins and tasted absolutely wonderful. One grouse per person, they are small birds after all, positively yum!

Waiting for it to cool some, Bruce couldn't

 More walking through the streets and Ivan points out buildings, history of both the neighbourhood and Sevilla. 

Outside the food market, typical streetscape

Next stop is at another non-tourist place that specialized in cod or bacalao in Spanish called Bodega Mateo. (yes, Ivan, I wrote the name on a napkin) The owners are deaf but that certainly doesn’t affect their cooking! We had tapas, all seafood and each was so very well done. Also had a dry sherry that tasted great and really complemented the seafood. Ivan said it made you feel “even” when drinking it with that food, right he was. Batter on the cod was much like tempura which apparently started in Spain or Portugal and went to Japan. The decorative fans from Spain also went to Japan to be used by Geisha.

The proper way to eat garbanzo beans here: you bite off the end and slide the middle into your mouth, discard the skin. I’ve seen it done and wondered why, because the skins are quite tough, but I could eat them either way, they are put in a brine, are fat free and a lovely alternative to olives.

Walked to Alameda da Hercules to have a coffee, it’s a very large paved park with water coming out from the pavement, which would be cooling in the summer heat. Read about it here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Alameda,_Seville  A storm blew in and blew us inside to wait it out for a few minutes. Ten minute walk to the flat and Ivan came in to meet Lexi, and talk about two more tours with him.

As you can probably tell, we feel blessed to have been given the opportunity to have Ivan as our guide! Thank you Pepe for your recommendation. Ivan understood immediately how we like to travel and accommodates to our wishes while providing valuable information and giving us a look into the real Sevilla. He does not, however, have good luck with restaurants he’s planned to take us to, another closed today, it has become a joke with us. The backup always works though and we enjoy the  look on his face when we get there and it’s closed. He says: “OH No! Hitting of forehead, “well, I’ll take you to this other favourite of mine… “  Again, if you ever come to Sevilla you will want him as a guide to get off the tourist routes to see and really experience the culture here. Ivan's contact information is on the previous post.

We're off to Cadiz on Sunday so will post from there. Cheers, Bx2 & Lexi Cat

Ayamonte and Isla Cristina tour by our guide Ivan

Start off with a correction to Ivan's name, previous post I said it is pronounced Yvon; in fact it's closer to Yvan.

This is Ivan, if you ever come to Sevilla you will want him to help you learn Spanish, tour around and learn the culture.

Ivan Sanchis Pedregosa, www.globallanguagetraining.com read Ivan's post on our trip to Ayamonte.

A bit more on the Metropol Parasol, I asked Ivan why the locals don’t like it and it is really a matter of where it was built, not the sculpture itself. It’s in the middle of the old town and certainly doesn’t fit in with the architecture of old, elegant buildings surrounding it. We have seen a mix of old and new architectures in other cities done gracefully, not this one.  It was also built over top of ruins and people here thought they should have been identified as a cultural bit of education as part of the City. Enough said.

Ivan drove us out to Isla Cristina about an hour and a half from Sevilla. So many olive trees and around Lepe miles of strawberries under long slim arched white tarps. They looked like giant white worms over the fields. Strawberry season is just about here and we can’t wait to try some! 

Isla Cristina is a mix of fishing village and condos for retirees. We met up with Pepe, was good to see him again. He was going to show us a flat there but that didn’t work, his key wouldn’t unlock the door (later we heard they had to get a locksmith to change the lock), so we abandoned the poor fellow, carried on to Ayamonte. 

There we toured around the town of white washed buildings and views to the river.

Ivan's pic of the sloped street and view to the river

Ivan's picture of the Theatre

It is a hilly town and the best viewpoint to the ocean was unavailable to see because of closed gates at both a fortress and a Parador/hotel at the top of the hill. 

Lovely garden view with the white walls, yes, those are lemons and a poinsettia.

We did see the bridge to Portugal which is minutes away. 

There is, or was, a ferry prior to the bridge being built that serviced the area. It wasn’t in operation but will likely start again in the summer. Ivan said there is little difference in the villages on both side of the river, their lifestyles and ways of thinking are the same, just different languages spoken.

Us, and no, I'm not holding him back, just a good hug! Bridge to Portugal in the background

Walked around the old town with the fish and vegetable market and to the large square in the middle with beautiful tile work. There is a festival coming soon, hence the masks everywhere.  Locals will dress in flamenco style, parade in the streets and generally have a great time having fun and celebrating their culture.

In the market there was this fellow who was selling a type of cured tuna called mojama de atun. We had a taste and bought some. He was drinking wine from a skin and asked Bruce to try, Bruce got it down just fine, However I washed my face with it! Anyway he was there to promote the product so we took pictures.

Ivan, Bruce and fellow with wine skin we all took a turn at, some, I less successfully.

Enjoyed a tapas lunch in a bodega, trying new (to us) seafood, can’t get any fresher than straight off the dock cooked, or not, and onto the plate. The word bodega means storage place as well as wine cellar and tavern. The downtown of Ayamonte has many bodegas where they sort and sell the fresh fish caught  off the boats and the port is a busy one since it services Sevilla and points between.

Drove out further to two villages, one where the fishermen live, enjoyed a coffee in the sunshine and watched the boats come into the estuary.  We were visited by a lovely chocolate brown lab who put her head on my knee for a pat, then on to Ivan, then Bruce before she sacked out on the warm tarmac of the road. 

Ivan's picture of Bruce petting our new friend the chocolate lab

Ivan's picture of the harbour

Heaven! Warm sun, good coffee, view of the ocean and an affectionate dog, what more can you ask for!

Then drove around large fancy apartment blocks in a newly built area called Isla Canela. Many are for sale now because they were purchased just before the Euro crisis. There is a golf course there catering to those that can still afford it. There is a small grocery store but you would really need a car because it is quite a way from downtown Ayamonte.

Both Isla Cristina and Ayamonte are a mix of fishing industry and holiday get aways, or retirees who wish to live on the coast. They seem to co-exist just fine despite the variance in life styles. Much like everywhere I suppose but more evident here I think.

On the way back we stopped at Franciscan monestary with the hope to have a wine tasting but it was closed. Beautiful old building and drove through Benacazon with it’s mix of lemon and orange trees along the streets, and back to the flat in Sevilla.

Sevilla is coming up to the season when the orange trees are in flower. Ivan said there is a lovely aroma that wafts through the streets at that time. Crews have pretty much gathered most of the oranges off the trees now, not all, in preparation for flowering I suppose.

What a wonderful day! Ivan was the perfect host, we learned much about Spanish culture and saw some beautiful countryside. I think Ivan was a bit disappointed that a few things were closed, like a couple of friends restaurants, as mentioned. But we weren’t disappointed in the day one bit! Thank you Ivan for the day and your pictures of it.