Lagos Part 4 and Last for Lagos

Friday we drove to Odiaxere to meet up with Paul and Anja for a Peri Peri chicken lunch. Peri peri is also called bird’s eye chilli, the main ingredient, and while it is available in Lagos, Paul and Anja like it here best. 

It was scrumptious! It came with hand cut fries and a tasty green salad. 

Served from a water bottle, low key...

The owner topped it off with a potent ginger tasting drink. 

After we went for a coffee in full view of a windmill that was used to grind the corn harvested in the area. 

Then we drove to a beautiful lake viewed from on top of a hill with a dam recommended by Paul and Anja. White wild flowers covered the hillsides and they said the smell of them in the morning was wonderful.

Doors on the way to the car, we all thought were unique.

Dam at one end of the lake.

Next we went to Praia da Salema, coastal town for a drink, I had a Cosmopolitan, Angela had a Whiskey Sour and Ryan a scotch. We sat in the sun at seaside watching the dogs play. 

Working fishing boats.

For my farming sister, they have Massey Ferguson here, just like Dad did.

Saturday and we leave to come back to Sevilla. It was a wonderful trip to see new sights and many beaches. My sincere thanks to Ryan and Angela for having me along!

Bye, Bye Lagos!

Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat

Lagos Part 3

Belated Happy Mother's Day to those of you who are!

Wednesday and Rain! Hmph, so we drive downtown for an extended breakfast, savoury ham and cheese crepes which I haven’t had in a while, you’ve heard me write that before on this trip. Watched people walking by who clearly had not seen a weather forecast, wearing shorts and sandals and shivering. Came back to our respective flats to veg with a book for me and work for them. It got to be about 3:00 and I was getting a bit of cabin fever so decided to go out for a bite. Checking in where I thought I wanted to go, a Chinese restaurant on the Marina next to the Italian place and the reviews were bad! Really bad, like “run away”, “worst food”, etc so decided to go to a nearby place called Avenida.  www.avenidarestaurante.pt Upmarket, rather fancy but it was worth it I thought. Bread served with special Portuguese olive oil, sea salt, truffle and chorizo infused butters served on rocks and oyster shells, simulating a beach, the presentation was worth it, read on. 

A beach in a bowl!

I chose the langostinos or large prawns, seared but left raw in the middle, see website for further description and the following picture. 

Small in portion size, as the waitress warned me but so tasty, not sure I’ve ever eaten raw prawn before but this is a highly regarded restaurant so I trusted they would be fine. Glass of wine and I’m good and I got out for a short walk. Coming from the we(s)t coast I’ve got to keep going out in the rain and not let a little damp impede my travel. 

Thursday at Oasis on the marina for breakfast, English style here and portions are more manageable than the first place we went. I went downtown to look for a jewellers to fix an earring that the post had dropped off and the earring stepped on. No dice but did end up with a set of three rings and two pairs of earrings. The raincoat I love to wear seems to have it in for posts on earrings, two lost this trip alone. 

Get ready for pictures! The afternoon we drove east to the beaches ending up in Luz for a drink and a bite at The Bull in full hot sun.

View from the terrace at The Bull, original sports bar.

Then further along the boardwalk for shade at The Endless Summer, tag line “Life is better at the beach”.

View from Endless Summer, many tidal pools here.

Spectacular views of oddly shaped rock formations and cliffs due to the sea’s battering waves and clear azure coloured water. 

Note the stairs, Bruce and I walked them on our first trip to Portugal, also note the left hole in the rock, coastline is studded with holes.

Stunning wild flowers.

There are several ways by water to investigate the coastline, via big or small tour boats, kayaks which would be my preferred method, there are dolphin sighting tours, deep sea fishing tours, trips in boats of all sizes and either in stink pots (motor boats) or rag baggers (sailing boats). My Uncle Jack taught me those "nautical" terms.

Ryan and Angela kept commenting it was definitely more busy than times previous because they typically come earlier in the year and almost have the coastline and beaches to themselves.

All for this post, look out for Post 4.

Cheers, Bev

Lagos, Portugal, Part 2

Group selfie, Ryan's long arms come in handy for this...

On another news front, closer to “home in Lagos" https://af.reuters.com/article/commoditiesNews/idAFL5N21Y4ZV We did a lot of things Tuesday but firstly we noticed long line ups or queues at the gas stations on the way out of town. Coming back into town they were even longer Angela found out there was a truckers strike which is causing shortages for groceries and fuel deliveries, even dried out gas station tanks, causing the stations to close. I read this isn’t just a Portugal problem but world wide over this latter week, causing shortages at airports as well, well timed from the trucker’s point of view over the Easter holidays with so many travelling for the break. I had totally forgotten how much fuel costs to fill up a tank, a wake up call for me, at close to 60 Euros for about half a tank. Update, the strike ended Thursday morning but it took a while for all stations to get filled again.

Okay, to start Tuesday over from the beginning, we had an extremely large breakfast at Lazy Jacks at the marina. We could have ordered two with food left over for three. The waiter was from Moldova, which for those who don’t know, is between Ukraine and Romania, we had to look it up. Friendly fellow who spoke five languages.  

Centre of town

Just loved this sign.

We then walked all over Lagos, among the tatty tourist shops mixed with shops for locals and surfing shops. They make purses, belts and others from cork which is prevalent here. My guess is they need to find new uses of it since many wineries are moving to screw cap closure on wine bottles. 

One of the most photographed buildings in Lagos, magnificent!

What I noticed is that they use a lot of tile on the outside of buildings where Sevilla uses it on the inside.

Just a door but what character! 

Former station where sailors unloaded their wares and paid the duty on them.

Art gallery we didn't go in, next to the former slave market, now a fish and vegetable one which was disappointing with lack of choice we thought.

Next we went to one of Ryan’s favourite villages outside Lagos by about 20 minutes called Carvoeiro, beachside opening from arched cliffs with buildings, tiny town, very pretty and geared to tourists. 

Working fishing village, also big on tourism.

I did a bit of beach combing, left the two shells for the landlord's kids. This is my crazy sun hat which saved my head that day.

Had a drink at a sandwich place on the beach, I had a British cider, treat since I hadn’t had one in a long while, but then moved on to an authentic Portuguese restaurant when things and food got interesting. 

www.restaurantoasis.com This restaurant showcases Algarve dishes, well prepared and great service. 

Alicia flaming Chorizo sausage next to the table.

Our waitress, Alicia, is from Northern Germany hired because she caters to the tourists with her excellently well spoken English and German. She made the meal an experience mostly due to Ryan and Angela’s banter with her, and she gave it right back. Portions again were huge but very tasty! 

That was Tuesday, with all the pictures Ryan and I have taken I think this series of posts will be per day in Lagos and surrounds. 

This is a link to a youtube video I couldn't upload properly but it shows the fantastic views from hiking and kayaking vantage points of the area. Copy and paste if interested, there are many more videos I've discovered so do a search.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPi-O02TNIE

Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat who didn't come on the side trips.

Happy Easter and I'm in Lagos, Portugal!

Lagos marina, note the tiled boardwalk, view from my rental flat.

Happy Easter to you my friends from Lexi Cat and I!

I was booked to go back to Freiburg on April 17 and woke up one morning a week prior and asked myself why not stay in Sevilla a bit longer? Angela and Ryan planned their annual (avoid Semana Santa) trip to Lagos, Portugal to visit friends and since train service there is sketchy I asked if I could tag along, basically invited myself. Bruce and I had been to the beaches and spectacular cliffs at Lagos (pronounced Lagosh) but hadn’t lingered to really see much of the town and it was an opportunity for me to do that. 

Driving down the spring flowers were out, yellow and purple on bushes, the earth is a coral almost dark orange tone that stands out from the green, just beautiful. Portugal is on regular European time one hour behind Spain’s. That is where I am writing this from now, in a studio apartment across from the marina. 

First off upon reaching town we went to see their good friends Anya and Paul to get the keys for the flat Angela and Ryan are renting from them in town. They live in a very small town, Odiaxere, outside Lagos with their collection of old rescue dogs, the stories they tell about each one’s escape from hell are horrifying. But those dogs have these two humans in their corner and they all looked happy, healthy and free living with Anya and Paul.

One of them, like the ears!

Another, this one likes scraps from the table, we were warned not to feed him.

Anya and Paul put out a spread of lovely munchies which included one of the best guacamole I’ve ever had (secret is cumin). Anya grows a fantastic cacti garden.

Came into town to get Lexi and I settled meeting Daniel to get the keys. Angela and Ryan got themselves settled, then a large grocery store run to buy a few basics like coffee!!! for the mornings at Intermarche, the very large, new grocers. Dinner at a high class but casual Italian restaurant across the marina called Portofino’s where they were short staffed and very busy so we gave up our table to sit outside after eating very tasty pasta. They appreciated our move so much they comped us a drink. Food and service was excellent with a view over the marina. P.S. Happy Hour exists here, there are many British expats along the Algarve and I expect it is a custom from them.

This is the first post of more to come, we've been busy here exploring the town, and the Algarve, it's been wonderful!

Happy Easter to you! Cheers Bev and Lexi Cat

Cadiz Part 2

This was the view from the apartment I rented, pretty spectacular!

The sunrises were amazing from here as well. The apartment itself was comfortable and central, close to the Cathedral and really close to the market.

I visited the Museum of Cadiz, Plaza de Mina, which contains the merged Fine Arts and Archaeological Museums. 

Left: male Phoenician anthropoid sarcophagus found in 1887.
Right: Female found in 1980.

Strong looking women

As in Sevilla, pretty much every time there is a dig for a building, archaeology ruins are found so the collection in this museum keeps expanding. It is well laid out and is used as a place of study as well as for the general public. Some of the objects found are in pristine condition, even complete glass vases which surprised me. I took many more photos, too many to include here.

Fine Arts are located on the first floor (second in North America). A couple of my favourites.

Second floor holds the Contemporary Arts pieces which for me were amusing, bizarre and likeable.

Not the best picture, sculpture inside a glass case, but does speak for itself, he's chained to a TV.

Pure Spanish, arch behind, palm tree, mantilla...

Pure whimsy! Part of a large collection of like paintings, it was hard to decide which to photograph.

That is my very light coverage of the museum, if you are interested further here is the website 
http://www.museosdeandalucia.es/web/museodecadiz

Aside from the food tour I ate well in the city, often around the central market where restaurants line both sides of it and for a stroll afterward, the flower market was close by which was a delight. My favourite was called Anca Lidia.
https://www.facebook.com/ancalidia.cadiz/

Prawns in garlic, hot pepper, butter and hake fish wrapped in a cornmeal coating, absolute yum!

Here are some buildings and sites I took photos of just walking around. Cadiz is on an island with a large port, you can easily walk to the coastline in any direction and sometimes without meaning to. 

Still decorated for Carnival, there was confetti all over the sidewalks and streets, I arrived the day after it finished (on purpose).

I loved the detail on this building and that street lamp is what type hang throughout the streets here.

Santa Cruz Church

Okay, what is this? It is a water fountain for adults, children and dogs, one of many installed recently in the city. I liked that it was designed for children and dogs too.

From Lexi who enjoyed curling up in the sunny spots in the apartment.

So that was my mini trip to Cadiz. Honestly Monday afternoon was difficult, it took me moving from one restaurant to another to get served and I felt invisible, thought maybe I should just return to Sevilla. The next day I decided not to give up and continue exploring and started to enjoy myself. By the end of the week I didn't want to leave and isn't that the feeling that one should have after a good vacation?

Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat

Cadiz Part 1 - Food Tour

The tour copied from AirBnB Experiences

About your host

I am local from Cádiz. After eight years living abroad and working in tourism, I am back in my lovely hometown. Passionate about sharing local experiences, food and stories about this wonderful city.

Ernesto

Contact host

What we’ll do

Discover the main central market, the best place to learn about local products. You will participate in the whole process of market shopping like a local, visiting the stands and interacting with the vendors. 

Enjoy an unique gastronomy experience visiting a traditional andalusian tavern and a typical tapas-bar, where you can taste the amazing gaditanian gastronomy: Local charcuterie, sliced pork belly, cheese, marinated tomatoes, crispy shrimp fritters, marinated potatoes, cured salted tuna… 

Walk through the narrow streets of the old town, where you will find a beautiful architecture and an invaluable cultural legacy. We will finish our experience visiting the Cádiz that very few tourists have the chance to see.

I will try all my best to give you a taste of the local Cádiz lifestyle that makes this city stand out from the rest of Spain.

What else you should know

-Total distance covered: 2.7 km

-Experience not adapted for vegans or vegetarians.

-Transportation to Cadiz not included. Trains running every hour from Seville (90 min trip) and Jerez (45 min trip).

What I’ll provide

Local tavern + Tapas bar 

Sliced pork belly, cheese, marinated tomatoes, crispy shrimp fritters, cured salted tuna, marinated potatoes, banderillas...

3 drinks 

I will recommend you the best drinks in each stop: Local vermouth, Sherry wines, special types of Manzanilla...

Central Market 

Olive tasting, including different type of olives...

The following was written by Ernesto, Food Eaten

Hi hi! Here you have a list with all the food you tried during the food experience:

MARKET -Morcilla de arroz: Blood sausage with rice or blood pudding with rice. -Chicharrones: Fried pork belly -Olives: Verdial & Gordal -Marinated carrots with cumin, bay laurel, vinegar, garlic and olive oil.

Cockles and Mussels

 

The pink in the middle is sea snake, if disturbed will bite in the water.

Sword fish head

Snacks in the market as mentioned above

TABERNA CASA MANTECA -Chicharrones especiales: Roasted pork belly with salt, garlic and fennel. Sliced and with some lemon juice and salt on top. -Mojama: Salt-cured tuna. -Queso payoyo: Goat cheese from Grazalema (Cádiz mountains), with asparagus jam -Marinated tomatoes from Conil with olive oil, oregano, cumin and salt.

Ernesto and Gerd from Sweden, her husband is Urban

EL FARO DE CÁDIZ -Tortillitas de camarones: Shrimp fritters -Papas aliñás: Potato salad made with boiled potatoes, olive oil, parsley and onion. -Habichuelas aliñadas: Marinate edible beans with smoked salmon, onion, parsley and olive oil.

Tortillitas de camarones, I've had these before and didn't care much for them, but these were delicious!

To end the tour we had coffee and treat at his workplace which is a club, event venue and shared working space for young entrepreneurs, gem of a building the general public does not usually have access to. The treat was bread fried in honey, a typical dessert from the region.

Ceiling of the building

Beautiful carving, style of the Alcazar

http://www.casinogrupovelez.com/ the website of the building.

Some trivia Ernesto told us: 

Cooking, the basics used in most recipes are olive oil, vinegar, garlic, onion, cumin, salt, pepper, oregano.

He told us how to prepare the foods at the market and to shop when the cruise ships are not in, Ernesto printed out a schedule from the port website and takes his grandmother there when ships aren’t in to avoid the crowds. Also he shops about 1:30 before closing at 2 pm to get deep discounts on still fresh fish.

Cadiz being a port city was prepared for war so they mounted many canons which were not used so now they use them on street corners to protect the edges of the buildings from traffic.

Never eat on the main street, always go around a corner for a more authentic and cheaper experience, something I'd known but had forgotten.

There is a license for 15 people per year to take care of the stray cats at a plaza in the city, couple of them we saw wandering around looked nourished and healthy.

Dogs have to be cleaned up after, poop scooped, pee washed with mixture of water and detergent or owners risk 300 Euros fee.


We walked through the Franco inspired buildings neighbourhood which were austere and plain. Then through the neighbourhood with merchants grand houses, high alcoved windows, showing the family had high ceilings, an indicative of the time that they had money.

I did a review of Ernesto's tour and he received top marks, well deserved. He was both professional and fun!

Part 2 coming up, Ernesto did most of the writing of this post, I'll be writing the next.

Salud, or Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat