Lagos, Portugal, Part 2

Group selfie, Ryan's long arms come in handy for this...

On another news front, closer to “home in Lagos" https://af.reuters.com/article/commoditiesNews/idAFL5N21Y4ZV We did a lot of things Tuesday but firstly we noticed long line ups or queues at the gas stations on the way out of town. Coming back into town they were even longer Angela found out there was a truckers strike which is causing shortages for groceries and fuel deliveries, even dried out gas station tanks, causing the stations to close. I read this isn’t just a Portugal problem but world wide over this latter week, causing shortages at airports as well, well timed from the trucker’s point of view over the Easter holidays with so many travelling for the break. I had totally forgotten how much fuel costs to fill up a tank, a wake up call for me, at close to 60 Euros for about half a tank. Update, the strike ended Thursday morning but it took a while for all stations to get filled again.

Okay, to start Tuesday over from the beginning, we had an extremely large breakfast at Lazy Jacks at the marina. We could have ordered two with food left over for three. The waiter was from Moldova, which for those who don’t know, is between Ukraine and Romania, we had to look it up. Friendly fellow who spoke five languages.  

Centre of town

Just loved this sign.

We then walked all over Lagos, among the tatty tourist shops mixed with shops for locals and surfing shops. They make purses, belts and others from cork which is prevalent here. My guess is they need to find new uses of it since many wineries are moving to screw cap closure on wine bottles. 

One of the most photographed buildings in Lagos, magnificent!

What I noticed is that they use a lot of tile on the outside of buildings where Sevilla uses it on the inside.

Just a door but what character! 

Former station where sailors unloaded their wares and paid the duty on them.

Art gallery we didn't go in, next to the former slave market, now a fish and vegetable one which was disappointing with lack of choice we thought.

Next we went to one of Ryan’s favourite villages outside Lagos by about 20 minutes called Carvoeiro, beachside opening from arched cliffs with buildings, tiny town, very pretty and geared to tourists. 

Working fishing village, also big on tourism.

I did a bit of beach combing, left the two shells for the landlord's kids. This is my crazy sun hat which saved my head that day.

Had a drink at a sandwich place on the beach, I had a British cider, treat since I hadn’t had one in a long while, but then moved on to an authentic Portuguese restaurant when things and food got interesting. 

www.restaurantoasis.com This restaurant showcases Algarve dishes, well prepared and great service. 

Alicia flaming Chorizo sausage next to the table.

Our waitress, Alicia, is from Northern Germany hired because she caters to the tourists with her excellently well spoken English and German. She made the meal an experience mostly due to Ryan and Angela’s banter with her, and she gave it right back. Portions again were huge but very tasty! 

That was Tuesday, with all the pictures Ryan and I have taken I think this series of posts will be per day in Lagos and surrounds. 

This is a link to a youtube video I couldn't upload properly but it shows the fantastic views from hiking and kayaking vantage points of the area. Copy and paste if interested, there are many more videos I've discovered so do a search.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPi-O02TNIE

Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat who didn't come on the side trips.

Happy Easter and I'm in Lagos, Portugal!

Lagos marina, note the tiled boardwalk, view from my rental flat.

Happy Easter to you my friends from Lexi Cat and I!

I was booked to go back to Freiburg on April 17 and woke up one morning a week prior and asked myself why not stay in Sevilla a bit longer? Angela and Ryan planned their annual (avoid Semana Santa) trip to Lagos, Portugal to visit friends and since train service there is sketchy I asked if I could tag along, basically invited myself. Bruce and I had been to the beaches and spectacular cliffs at Lagos (pronounced Lagosh) but hadn’t lingered to really see much of the town and it was an opportunity for me to do that. 

Driving down the spring flowers were out, yellow and purple on bushes, the earth is a coral almost dark orange tone that stands out from the green, just beautiful. Portugal is on regular European time one hour behind Spain’s. That is where I am writing this from now, in a studio apartment across from the marina. 

First off upon reaching town we went to see their good friends Anya and Paul to get the keys for the flat Angela and Ryan are renting from them in town. They live in a very small town, Odiaxere, outside Lagos with their collection of old rescue dogs, the stories they tell about each one’s escape from hell are horrifying. But those dogs have these two humans in their corner and they all looked happy, healthy and free living with Anya and Paul.

One of them, like the ears!

Another, this one likes scraps from the table, we were warned not to feed him.

Anya and Paul put out a spread of lovely munchies which included one of the best guacamole I’ve ever had (secret is cumin). Anya grows a fantastic cacti garden.

Came into town to get Lexi and I settled meeting Daniel to get the keys. Angela and Ryan got themselves settled, then a large grocery store run to buy a few basics like coffee!!! for the mornings at Intermarche, the very large, new grocers. Dinner at a high class but casual Italian restaurant across the marina called Portofino’s where they were short staffed and very busy so we gave up our table to sit outside after eating very tasty pasta. They appreciated our move so much they comped us a drink. Food and service was excellent with a view over the marina. P.S. Happy Hour exists here, there are many British expats along the Algarve and I expect it is a custom from them.

This is the first post of more to come, we've been busy here exploring the town, and the Algarve, it's been wonderful!

Happy Easter to you! Cheers Bev and Lexi Cat

Cadiz Part 2

This was the view from the apartment I rented, pretty spectacular!

The sunrises were amazing from here as well. The apartment itself was comfortable and central, close to the Cathedral and really close to the market.

I visited the Museum of Cadiz, Plaza de Mina, which contains the merged Fine Arts and Archaeological Museums. 

Left: male Phoenician anthropoid sarcophagus found in 1887.
Right: Female found in 1980.

Strong looking women

As in Sevilla, pretty much every time there is a dig for a building, archaeology ruins are found so the collection in this museum keeps expanding. It is well laid out and is used as a place of study as well as for the general public. Some of the objects found are in pristine condition, even complete glass vases which surprised me. I took many more photos, too many to include here.

Fine Arts are located on the first floor (second in North America). A couple of my favourites.

Second floor holds the Contemporary Arts pieces which for me were amusing, bizarre and likeable.

Not the best picture, sculpture inside a glass case, but does speak for itself, he's chained to a TV.

Pure Spanish, arch behind, palm tree, mantilla...

Pure whimsy! Part of a large collection of like paintings, it was hard to decide which to photograph.

That is my very light coverage of the museum, if you are interested further here is the website 
http://www.museosdeandalucia.es/web/museodecadiz

Aside from the food tour I ate well in the city, often around the central market where restaurants line both sides of it and for a stroll afterward, the flower market was close by which was a delight. My favourite was called Anca Lidia.
https://www.facebook.com/ancalidia.cadiz/

Prawns in garlic, hot pepper, butter and hake fish wrapped in a cornmeal coating, absolute yum!

Here are some buildings and sites I took photos of just walking around. Cadiz is on an island with a large port, you can easily walk to the coastline in any direction and sometimes without meaning to. 

Still decorated for Carnival, there was confetti all over the sidewalks and streets, I arrived the day after it finished (on purpose).

I loved the detail on this building and that street lamp is what type hang throughout the streets here.

Santa Cruz Church

Okay, what is this? It is a water fountain for adults, children and dogs, one of many installed recently in the city. I liked that it was designed for children and dogs too.

From Lexi who enjoyed curling up in the sunny spots in the apartment.

So that was my mini trip to Cadiz. Honestly Monday afternoon was difficult, it took me moving from one restaurant to another to get served and I felt invisible, thought maybe I should just return to Sevilla. The next day I decided not to give up and continue exploring and started to enjoy myself. By the end of the week I didn't want to leave and isn't that the feeling that one should have after a good vacation?

Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat

Cadiz Part 1 - Food Tour

The tour copied from AirBnB Experiences

About your host

I am local from Cádiz. After eight years living abroad and working in tourism, I am back in my lovely hometown. Passionate about sharing local experiences, food and stories about this wonderful city.

Ernesto

Contact host

What we’ll do

Discover the main central market, the best place to learn about local products. You will participate in the whole process of market shopping like a local, visiting the stands and interacting with the vendors. 

Enjoy an unique gastronomy experience visiting a traditional andalusian tavern and a typical tapas-bar, where you can taste the amazing gaditanian gastronomy: Local charcuterie, sliced pork belly, cheese, marinated tomatoes, crispy shrimp fritters, marinated potatoes, cured salted tuna… 

Walk through the narrow streets of the old town, where you will find a beautiful architecture and an invaluable cultural legacy. We will finish our experience visiting the Cádiz that very few tourists have the chance to see.

I will try all my best to give you a taste of the local Cádiz lifestyle that makes this city stand out from the rest of Spain.

What else you should know

-Total distance covered: 2.7 km

-Experience not adapted for vegans or vegetarians.

-Transportation to Cadiz not included. Trains running every hour from Seville (90 min trip) and Jerez (45 min trip).

What I’ll provide

Local tavern + Tapas bar 

Sliced pork belly, cheese, marinated tomatoes, crispy shrimp fritters, cured salted tuna, marinated potatoes, banderillas...

3 drinks 

I will recommend you the best drinks in each stop: Local vermouth, Sherry wines, special types of Manzanilla...

Central Market 

Olive tasting, including different type of olives...

The following was written by Ernesto, Food Eaten

Hi hi! Here you have a list with all the food you tried during the food experience:

MARKET -Morcilla de arroz: Blood sausage with rice or blood pudding with rice. -Chicharrones: Fried pork belly -Olives: Verdial & Gordal -Marinated carrots with cumin, bay laurel, vinegar, garlic and olive oil.

Cockles and Mussels

 

The pink in the middle is sea snake, if disturbed will bite in the water.

Sword fish head

Snacks in the market as mentioned above

TABERNA CASA MANTECA -Chicharrones especiales: Roasted pork belly with salt, garlic and fennel. Sliced and with some lemon juice and salt on top. -Mojama: Salt-cured tuna. -Queso payoyo: Goat cheese from Grazalema (Cádiz mountains), with asparagus jam -Marinated tomatoes from Conil with olive oil, oregano, cumin and salt.

Ernesto and Gerd from Sweden, her husband is Urban

EL FARO DE CÁDIZ -Tortillitas de camarones: Shrimp fritters -Papas aliñás: Potato salad made with boiled potatoes, olive oil, parsley and onion. -Habichuelas aliñadas: Marinate edible beans with smoked salmon, onion, parsley and olive oil.

Tortillitas de camarones, I've had these before and didn't care much for them, but these were delicious!

To end the tour we had coffee and treat at his workplace which is a club, event venue and shared working space for young entrepreneurs, gem of a building the general public does not usually have access to. The treat was bread fried in honey, a typical dessert from the region.

Ceiling of the building

Beautiful carving, style of the Alcazar

http://www.casinogrupovelez.com/ the website of the building.

Some trivia Ernesto told us: 

Cooking, the basics used in most recipes are olive oil, vinegar, garlic, onion, cumin, salt, pepper, oregano.

He told us how to prepare the foods at the market and to shop when the cruise ships are not in, Ernesto printed out a schedule from the port website and takes his grandmother there when ships aren’t in to avoid the crowds. Also he shops about 1:30 before closing at 2 pm to get deep discounts on still fresh fish.

Cadiz being a port city was prepared for war so they mounted many canons which were not used so now they use them on street corners to protect the edges of the buildings from traffic.

Never eat on the main street, always go around a corner for a more authentic and cheaper experience, something I'd known but had forgotten.

There is a license for 15 people per year to take care of the stray cats at a plaza in the city, couple of them we saw wandering around looked nourished and healthy.

Dogs have to be cleaned up after, poop scooped, pee washed with mixture of water and detergent or owners risk 300 Euros fee.


We walked through the Franco inspired buildings neighbourhood which were austere and plain. Then through the neighbourhood with merchants grand houses, high alcoved windows, showing the family had high ceilings, an indicative of the time that they had money.

I did a review of Ernesto's tour and he received top marks, well deserved. He was both professional and fun!

Part 2 coming up, Ernesto did most of the writing of this post, I'll be writing the next.

Salud, or Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Happy St. Patrick's Day to you! 

A bit about my Grandfather who I received Irish citizenship from. He worked at the Guinness brewery as a young man and rode a bike to work. His tires would be frequently pierced by the women in the plant with their hat pins because he was quite the rogue. I don’t know what date he moved to Canada or much in-between but he farmed in Brentwood Bay and then moved to a bungalow that my father built for him and my Nan and Pop as we called them. He would watch soap operas in the basement of the home in the afternoons and drink a dram of scotch. It was a very great pleasure to know him in my childhood, to have him in my life, and I wonder what he would have thought of me getting my Irish citizenship. Whit/Bruce and I did visit the relatives in Ireland a few years ago and had a wonderful time with them. One cousin was an almost duplicate of my father right down to mannerisms but he had a wife that talked more than he did, much like my parents. We saw learned more of the history of the family and they were very welcoming to us. 

Just this for now but this last week Lexi and I spent six days in the city of Cadiz. I did a food tour which was great and explored the city. It was a really good change of pace and only an hour and a half by train south of Sevilla. So you know what my next blog entry will be about, maybe two. 

Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat

Visits and Inept but Determined Pickpocket!

One Sunday Ryan and Angela came over and Ryan made, and taught me to make, red Thai curry, Angela brought and cooked up some gyoza, and brought mango sherbet she had made for desert. Mucho Yummy!

I met Rocio outside Ryan and Angela's, her day to clean there, she stuck an earbud in my ear and we "waltzed" up the stairs singing to Sevilliano music, what a lady! Then Pepe drove us to the town of Mairena del Aljarafe about 20 minutes outside Sevilla to a cafe run by Mariela called Alquimista (Alchemist) Coffee Lab. 

She roasts coffee beans there for other cafes and themselves and explained the process to us, with humour and a beautiful smile.

Breakfast was great with different offerings than many cafes.

Poached egg on avocado spread.

The green is pistachio ice cream, the plunger is filled with Maple syrup which Mariela said the Spaniards don't know about and she ends up throwing the expensive stuff out.

Pepe enjoying, it was quite cool with a breeze, hence the hood.

Mariela had lived in the States for some time so perhaps her ideas came from there. The cafe’s location is behind a strip mall, you really have to know about it to find it. It was very busy there though and not a weekend. 

Peach blossoms

We walked through a large nursery next to the cafe. Angela said it was like walking through a garden, sunken areas in patterns for potted plants were both practical and visually appealing. 

Sunken in the indented concrete

Gives you an idea of size, the warehouse was just as big.

There were two employees with Downs Syndrome and there was a children’s play area, humanitarian thinking on the company’s part.

Unusual blue flower, lily? it came in a pot so think it's real...

Ali and Andy were here in Sevilla for a week. They were here a couple of years ago. They both blog but Ali does so more frequently at www.aliadventures.com You may remember we met them first in Freiburg when they lived there. Anyway we met up for lunch, with Pepe, Ryan and Angela at Al Aljibe, always a "treat" place for us to go. Then we went for Gelato next door at Freskura, deemed by Ryan and Angela as the best in the city. 

Pepe installed the TV on the wall, he was professional about the process, measuring, testing and measuring again before actual installation, it’s not something you want to have to repair. Big Thank you's to Pepe and to Ivan who helped me buy it, team project.

I met Ali and Andy again on Sunday and we lunched at Kakura, my (Ivan's introduction) favourite Japanese restaurant. They came back to the flat with me to see the apartment but didn’t stay long, Andy had work to complete since they leave Tuesday. 

Heard clip clop of horses hooves which is quite common here, usually a carriage, but the other day it sounded louder and I peered out my window to find six mounted cops on horses. Like I’ve said before, just never know what you’ll see around here, or experience, read on.

I got pickpocketed 1.5 times, what? Out walking neighbourhoods I hadn’t been to in a while. There was a fellow walking the same direction, ducking into stores and out again, I thought he was a tourist. He is tall, thin, wore a baseball cap, glasses, side satchel, jeans, light weight coat, all dark in colour. I started to walk through Plaza de la Gavidia, heard a noise behind me turned to find a guy had dropped a lot of change on the road. Then I saw the red glass heart I carry that I had given Bruce. It was my wallet that had fallen out of my purse, “must have jumped”, yeah right… Guy picks up all my change I put it back and thank him!? Then realize my purse is open. The penny didn’t drop, pun intended, until he tried again half a block away. I felt someone behind, pull the purse over my shoulder and it’s open again and the same guy is there. Sevilla is quite a safe city so I am more than shocked, I’m pissed off, as much at myself as the guy. I’ve become complacent, not anymore, I'm reawakened. I did not go straight home, I watched my back and took a detour. LADRON! Angela told me, means THIEF! which I will be yelling at him if I see him again, even though he didn't actually keep anything. 

Above pictures were taken by Ryan, Angela and myself.

Cheers, Bev and Lexi Cat 

Visits to a Palace and Church and food again.

Lebrija Palace, from the brochure: “Built in the 16th century and subsequently remodelled in the 19th century … is not simply a monument to a particular age or artistic style. It’s interior is branded with the life of the lady who once owned it, the Countess of Lebrija.” 

http://www.palaciodelebrija.com/Introduccion.html Casa Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija

This is a palace that is not hyped very much in Sevilla, many people walk past it and don’t go in. The website is minimal but I was walking past it one day and decided to go in. The main floor has many rooms, mostly mosaic tiled floors and shards of ancient pottery. Cameras are not allowed to be used inside, the outside is not overly beautiful so no pictures, except this one to give you a small glimpse.

The brochure and entry ticket.

Rocio was here on Thursday, as usual, but she was going to church after and invited me to join her. 

http://www.hermanasdelacruz.org/p/las-hermanas.html

We walked just past the Seta’s arm in arm, because that is what you do here, honestly, makes it a bit awkward on a crowded sidewalk though, but felt nice. The apse of the church and working nunnery, held a Sainted nun’s body, or wax facsimile of one in a glass coffin. Many bouquets of fresh flowers surrounded it and people had come to pay their respects. Most churches here have candles to light in memory of a loved one, this church had small pieces of paper to write on and put into a slotted box. It was a solemn and respectful experience for me.

Rocio bought this for me as a memento, it is likely hand stitched, and less than 3 cm.

After we walked around town, through some back alley’s I am getting familiar with and then looked into home decorating shops. Rocio is a touching type of person, she likes to feel the fabrics, likely due to the fact she sews. Then we had a Cruzcampo beer at Casa Santos a bar around the corner from the flat. We used Google translate on my phone to communicate. It was a lovely, interesting outing!

I have run into this issue before when paying a large accommodation bill in Amsterdam. Now again with a much lower bill, less than 2,000.00 Euros twice for accommodations in France for the summer. Banks seem to arbitrarily (well not really, but they apply their rules) to put limits on daily spending. My opinion is it is my account and I should be able to spend as I wish, but they cite security reasons. I am good with security but damn it makes it difficult to pay things sometimes. I’m off to the bank to get it sorted….

Good use of technology, the gas company left a note they had come by to read the meter while I was out. They left a note with a phone number to use WhatsApp, so I made an appointment using the app to have them come back. Not correct, you just use your phone to take a picture of the meter, add your address and it’s done. There is even a “flashlight” in the app to lighten the picture, needed because my meter is in the back of a cupboard. 

I made lunch for Ryan, Angela and Pepe. Served shrimp scampi over fettuccini noodles (which are hard to find here) with asparagus and snow peas, bread, always bread. I’m lucky to have a fresh bread store half a block from the flat which is open on Sunday. I’ve never made shrimp scampi before and hardly ever eaten it in restaurants so I have no clue what put that idea in my head but there it was.

Ryan's picture, Thanks Ryan, Angela and Pepe for coming!

I found canned salmon at El Corte! For those of you from Canada that might not be a big deal, it’s readily available there, but I’ve been looking for a long while and not found it here, or in Freiburg for that matter.

I bought a TV! Common item in most, dare I say almost all homes, but not in ours. Bruce didn’t like the commercials and I got out of the habit, but I watched a bit of it in Freiburg and thought I was picking up more German. Plus it is background noise which I am now welcoming a bit of. Ivan ordered it for me and we picked it up and walked home with it, along with the mounting bracket because it’s going on a wall. Pepe came over to set it up and will bring his heavy duty drill over to mount it, currently it’s set up  on a cabinet.

New furniture decorated, Lexi approves. Ryan's picture.

We, Lexi and I, are taking a mini-break from Sevilla, not that we need to, but are going to Cadiz for five nights in March. I would have booked end of February but they have a massive carnival in Cadiz, world wide attendants and I am really not fond of crowds. https://www.andalucia.org/en/the-carnival-of-cadiz/ This year it is later than usual Feb 28 - Mar 10, I arrive March 11 which means I may still see some of it since I’m told the party continues into the following week. http://allexciting.com/carnival-cadiz/

After my shower in the morning Lexi frequently comes to have her bath in the tub. She has never been bothered about a bit of water on her fur and I guess it is nice and warm in there.

Note the odd posture, all part of the bath.

Cheers, Bev and bathing Lexi